- I don’t know about you, but my legs are completely fucked – Adam said, when we had already crossed state lines into Arizona, chasing the sunrise since the tiny hours of the morning. - I’m not used to walking that much.

- Yeah, I’m a bit sore as well.

- A bit sore?! - he gaped – You can’t tell me that’s not just a euphemism.

I laughed. He had no idea how much I used to walk, even just within the walls of my own home – No, seriously. I’m just a bit sore. And it’s good for me, as well. Shows are very draining. And touring is exhausting.

- I can only imagine. How does it work? - curious, as always - Do you, like, have a tour bus, or a nightliner or something?

- We have a tour bus now – and I could only imagine how tense it would be, all cramped in there, with the way things were. The tense silences, the sudden erupting fights, nasty remarks flying around… – But we used to only have a van. We did an Eastern Europe tour in that thing. 0 out of 10, would not recommend.

- Like now? Travelling in a very nice 1981 Pontiac Firebird? - Adam smiled, fortunately unaware of my egocentric worries.

- For the time being, it would be a 10 out of 10, strongly recommend. The driver is a fun bloke to hang out with and the car is very cool looking.

- The driver’s cool as well…

- Yeah, alright – I saw him smile – the driver’s cool as well.

I noticed Adam looking in the rearview mirror and pulling over, as he slowed down.

- Something wrong? - I looked back and saw the flashing of blue lights from a police car – What’s happening?

- I think I was going over the limit.

He rolled his window down and waited for the officer to approach.

- ‘Morning, sir. Do you realise you were doing 40 on a 35? - the officer drawled. We were clearly entering Southern accent territory.

- Good morning, officer. I didn’t realise it, sorry. - the picture of calm and composure.

- License and registration, sir. - he peeked in the car and I smiled at him – Girlfriend?

- More like younger sister – he smiled as well, as he handed the documents, which the officer took.

The man took a look at the documents, then back at him – Adam Fairchild, like the actor? No place to hide?

- I’m afraid so, officer. - he gave him his best Hollywood-bright smile.

- Great movie. My daughter’s seen your latest twice already. The Dark Heart, right?

He nodded – And she’s in it as well – he pointed his thumb at me – Tell your daughter we said hi.

The highway patrol officer leaned over the window and took a good look at me again – You’re doing the old 66?

We nodded. I remembered when we had just begun touring and the police would stop us at any chance they had, as Martin’s old van looked strangely suspicious.

- I remember doing it back in the 70s, with my buddies. It’s a great trip – he took his mirrored glasses off – You old enough to cross state lines, miss?

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- Would you like to see my passport, officer? - I asked, another perfect portrait of grace and composure.

- I would, if you don’t mind.

I handed him my passport and he chatted with us for a little bit more, before letting us go, with the promise that Adam would mind his speed, a slap on the hand and an autograph to his daughter who he said, would have the surprise of a lifetime, knowing her father had just pulled over Adam Fairchild.

That day, we went on another, much shorter, hike to Cathedral Rock, in Sedona. It was nothing like the setting in Amboy. Here, the tones were richer and brighter, in shades of burnt orange and sienna against the bright blue sky, and the greenery indicated that we were so much closer to some water source of sorts.

- I’d really like to know what made me think I was cut out for these nature hikes – he sat down heavily and put his head between his knees, struggling to catch his breath – I’m an Angeleno, born and bred, for God’s sake.

I sat by his side, and offered him my bottle of water, which he gladly took, taking a big, greedy gulp.

- But the view’s worth it, isn’t it? - I said, looking into the distance – It’s magnificent. I’m glad you invited me over.

- Yeah? - he leaned back, planting the palms of his hands on the ground, the bright sun highlighting his angular features – I mean, what else could be better than this? What else would you be doing, right now?

- Probably… - I took the bottle back and took a gulp as well – revolving around some familiar drama. Those things do tend to suck one in, you know?

He nodded – Sometimes you just have to step back and give things some time. They’ll work themselves out.

- See the bigger picture from afar?

- Something like that. I can’t keep doing this… - Adam just lay on the ground, his face wet with little beads of sweat.

- Hiking? - I laughed.

- Yeah… We’re spending the afternoon in Flagstaff. In a town, like God intended Man to do.

And that was exactly what we did. In fact, Flagstaff would be the centre of our operation for a few more days, as it was the closest town to both Wupatki National Monument, the Painted Desert, the Petrified Forest and to Adam’s detour, before we kept going.

There was such beauty and monumental dimension to his detour on our route, that the only thing I was able to mutter, as we both faced the Grand Canyon was a simple:

- Oh.

- Oh…? - a playful smirk danced on his lips – The Grand Canyon is sprawling before your eyes and all you can say is oh?

- I can’t really… I don’t think I know enough words for this.

- Oh… - this time he laughed loudly, after mimicking my laconic display of surprise – If ever I experienced Englishness from you, this was just it. Oh… - he just threw his arms up.

- Come on… - I nudged him on the side of the ribs – It was just too overwhelming.

- I’m not laughing at you – he bumped into me, making me stagger a little bit – It was just probably the only reaction I would never have imagined anyone would have, seeing all this – he pointed into the distance. - You will never live this down. I promise I won’t let you.

- I probably earned that – I smiled at him.

- You did, you did – he nodded – Imagine one day, a guy proposes to you, gets down on one knee, the whole nine yards, and all you can say is oh.

- I don’t do well with surprises – I said, leaning over the wooden rail above the ravines – I like to have things under control.

Adam stood next to me, putting his arms on the rail and also staring into the distance.

- You know – I went on – this whole thing we’re doing is really not me at all. - he let me talk. I knew he was acknowledging all I was saying and that I needed to get things out there. It was rare that I would do so. – Ever since I started all of this, that I have had this insurmountable need to oversee everything. I control my music, the way I present myself, the artwork associated with me, the way I behave in public, the way I talk in interviews, the venues, the lighting… It runs me to the ground, you know? And now… It’s so nice that I can be myself around you. I don’t even know where we’re heading tomorrow and it’s refreshing, not being the one behind the wheel.

He chuckled softly – That’s not a bad thing in itself, seeing as you can’t drive.

I gave him a side glance.

- No, but seriously, I’m honoured that you’re letting it all go, or at least put it on pause. And if you trust me enough to do that for you, then, it’s double the honour, right?

- Thank you, Adam. For being such a good friend.

He shrugged – That’s what friends do, isn’t it? They have each other’s backs. One day, I might be the one needing your help.

- And I will be here, when you do, darling.

We stood there in silence, admiring the serpentine lines of those ancient rock formations. The whole place looked as if Old Gods could still be living in its nooks and crannies, awaiting better days.

- By the way, you can use the word insurmountable in a run-of-the-mill sentence and you say oh, when you step on the Grand Canyon?

- I will smack you over the head, Fairchild – I said, as he laughed his ass off, saying that he would like to see me try reaching the top of his head and fulfilling my promises of violence.